Ligurian Road
now browsing by tag
Alta Via del Sale
It’s Wednesday. We arrive at the entrance to the High Salt Road, unsure if we’ll be allowed to enter. Officially, the road is restricted to vehicles less than 18 feet long, 5 feet high and weighing less than 3.5 tons..
At the ticket booth where you pay your way, I don’t hide the fact that VivaLaVida is breaking the three previous criteria and I’m glad I did. The attendant tells me that my honesty does me credit and that he’s happy to let me through. He tells me that in an overhanging section, I’ll have to drive close the edge to avoid hitting the rock but that he thinks it should be fine.
We are very happy to be able to discover this legendary trail!
1. In the wellknown hairpin just before the Pass of Boaria, where we turned back on our bikes the day before.
2. The trail winds between 6,000 and 7,200 feet above sea level for around thirty-five miles.
3. Landscape is superb.
4. After the Don Barbera refuge and the overhanging passage passed without any problem.
5. Part closer to the tree line.
6. Mount Saccarel, at 6,600 feet elevation.
7. High altitude landscape.
8. Former cannon battery of Mount Saccarel.
9. From Mount Saccarel, the trail we will take to descend. It is in poor condition and it will take us more than two hours to reach La Brigue where we will spend the night in a small campground.
10. Chapel of Our Lady of the Fountains, just before La Brigue.
11. After a good night’s sleep preceded by a dinner in a small restaurant, we go shopping food in Breil-sur-Roya and then take a trail leading to the Mercantour Park. Here, the pretty hilltop village of Soargue.
12. Breil-sur-Roya.
13. From a little higher up, where we stopped for lunch.
We meet a Mercantour park ranger who informs us that the heart of the park has been extended and that the planned trail now crosses it and it’s thus closed to all traffic.
He points us to an alternative route that’s a bit of a detour but allows us to avoid the heart of the park. So we retrace our steps to a junction and take the indicated trail. The loop is significantly longer but allows us to discover the hills of the hinterland with the Mediterranean sea in the background.
14. We find a gorgeous bivouac spot a few miles before the Turini barracks which we will discover the next day.
15. Walk at the end of the day.
To be followed soon… 😉
Argentera Valley & Pass of Tende
As previously mentioned, we’re delaying our descent to Tende as the weather isn’t favorable. Emile wanted to return, so we head up to the Argentera Valley. Access is now subject to a toll, with a toll booth on the bridge at the entrance to the valley.
We are a little disappointed to discover that major protection works have been undertaken, no doubt following recent heavy storms. Several areas of earthworks aimed at channeling lateral streams disfigure the lower part of the valley and greatly reduce its charm. Fortunately, higher up, nothing has yet been undertaken.
1. We find a nice spot down by the river.
2. View from our camp.
3. End of day tones.
4. The next morning, we take a walk upstream to discover a beautiful torrent.
5. Back at our camp, Emile takes the opportunity to cool off in the river.
6. Brrrr… it’s cold!
7. …
8. But it feels good!
9. The upper part of the valley remains quite wild.
With the weather improving in the South, we head down to Tende where we hope to discover the Alta Via del Sale (High Salt Road), an approximately 55 miles long trail that follows the ridgeline border between Italy and France. We did the Western section in 2017 but not the Eastern loop.
10. The hairpins of the Col de Tende on the French side (South). This trail is closed to traffic for several years.
11. Meet upon arrival at Fortress Central.
12. First night in the barracks, alone that evening.
13. Since it’s Tuesday and the regulated section of the Ruta del Sale is reserved for pedestrians and bicycles on Tuesdays and Thursdays, we set off to discover the beginning by bike. Here, on the climb to Campanino Pass, with Fortress Central in the background.
14. Emile is comfortable on his new mountain bike, even on climbs.
15. In the end, we rided 12 miles and 13,600 feet of elevation gain. Well done to him!
16. Second night in one of the old quarries used to build the barracks, for sheltering as a strong north wind is blowing.
17. Barracks at sunset.
To be followed in a few days…
Ruta del Sale…
1. From the Tende Pass, the switchbacks of the southern side are impressive !
2. We decide to borrow part of the Ruta del Sale which connects various ruins of military forts.
3. It’s well inhabited by many marmots almost ready for their next hibernation.
4. She looks like a ranger, isn’t she? 😉
5. VivaLaVida follows ridges…
6. … with new landscapes at every turn.
7. Clouds are close.
8. Nice bridge on our trail…
9. … which spans a torrent having dug the rock.
10. VLV makes a short stop.
11. Lunch break in a pretty clearing in the larches…
12. … and some play for Emile.
In the next update, we will show you Tende, a pretty village perched on the slopes of a deep valley.
D5 Creation