August, 2025
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Argentera Valley & Pass of Tende
As previously mentioned, we’re delaying our descent to Tende as the weather isn’t favorable. Emile wanted to return, so we head up to the Argentera Valley. Access is now subject to a toll, with a toll booth on the bridge at the entrance to the valley.
We are a little disappointed to discover that major protection works have been undertaken, no doubt following recent heavy storms. Several areas of earthworks aimed at channeling lateral streams disfigure the lower part of the valley and greatly reduce its charm. Fortunately, higher up, nothing has yet been undertaken.
1. We find a nice spot down by the river.
2. View from our camp.
3. End of day tones.
4. The next morning, we take a walk upstream to discover a beautiful torrent.
5. Back at our camp, Emile takes the opportunity to cool off in the river.
6. Brrrr… it’s cold!
7. …
8. But it feels good!
9. The upper part of the valley remains quite wild.
With the weather improving in the South, we head down to Tende where we hope to discover the Alta Via del Sale (High Salt Road), an approximately 55 miles long trail that follows the ridgeline border between Italy and France. We did the Western section in 2017 but not the Eastern loop.
10. The hairpins of the Col de Tende on the French side (South). This trail is closed to traffic for several years.
11. Meet upon arrival at Fortress Central.
12. First night in the barracks, alone that evening.
13. Since it’s Tuesday and the regulated section of the Ruta del Sale is reserved for pedestrians and bicycles on Tuesdays and Thursdays, we set off to discover the beginning by bike. Here, on the climb to Campanino Pass, with Fortress Central in the background.
14. Emile is comfortable on his new mountain bike, even on climbs.
15. In the end, we rided 12 miles and 13,600 feet of elevation gain. Well done to him!
16. Second night in one of the old quarries used to build the barracks, for sheltering as a strong north wind is blowing.
17. Barracks at sunset.
To be followed in a few days…
Technical inspection and start of summer holidays…
This year began with VivaLaVida’s periodic technical inspection, which was once again refused. Almost every time I presented her, the experts found “something else”: this time, they asked for proof that some non-original equipment – there’s a lot on VLV – was already there when imported in 2016. Another point was the non-compliant rear lighting, even though I had modified it following the DTC guidelines when I imported it and haven’t touched anything since. VLV was also rejected for “insufficient parking brake efficiency,” a classic.
Offroad Accessoires in Geneva – where Andrew, with whom I had done part of the Baja California journey, works and who had carried out the first VLV inspection in Switzerland – kindly issued a certificate indicating that the relevant components were indeed present at the time of importation. On my side, I decided to enlarge the diameter of the parking brake disc to increase its efficiency. The parts were custom machined.
1. Technical drawing of the disc.
2. Caliper flange.
3. Mounted system.
4. …
VivaLaVida presented for a counter-expertise, it was still necessary to go through various administrative procedures before the technical service finally agreed to keep the rear lighting as it was. It was only at the end of June that I was finally able to re-register VLV. Just in time for holidays!
This spring, with Emile staying with me for 4 weeks this summer, I planned to go to Montenegro. But having lost my job at the end of May, unemployment insurance obligations require me to remain available within 48 hours. So I had to change plans and decided to go discover new places in the Italian and French Alps, at a distance that would allow me to return in 2 days if requested.
5. First bivouac in the downpour, above the Toules dam, on the climb to the Grand St-Bernard Pass.
6. The next day, we go to Val Cervinia, which I only know from skiing. The Matterhorn is in the clouds…
7. Boondocking on the southern slope, below Alpe Champleve.
The next morning, we set off to explore a trail leading to the Pian Fum pass and the Sualera mountain pasture, which I had spotted several months ago through my map research. A barrier had recently been installed, which now blocks access to the pass. But we find a lovely spot to camp below, on Alpe Folere.
8. We are not far from Turin, in the Alpine foothills.
9. Trail…
10. Pretty pond near our camp. Top right, the Pian Fum pass.
11. It’s aperitif time!
12. After the shower, first campfire of the holidays…
13. With a grill of course!
14. Time to go to bed…
15. The next day, we climb the Colle del Colombardo, which we had first discovered in 2017. But at altitude, the weather was not very favorable…
16. It is only when going down the other side that the fog dissipates a little.
With the weather forecast predicts rain in the South, we go spending two days in Valle Argentera, near Sestriere, where Emile wanted to return. We’ll tell you the rest very soon. 😉
D5 Creation