Archives
now browsing by author
Highlands of Lozère
Coming back from Spain, we cross France by small roads, discovering some spots identified during previous research. We arrive in Gorges du Tarn and go up to a first causse (kind of of high plateau) by a very small road. It leads us to a trailhead to discover several natural arches.
1. First spot, a cave in the limestone.
2. A few hundred yards further, a first arch.
3. A hoodoo in the middle of a clearing.
4. Emile poses for the photo.
5. At the end of the loop trail, we arrive at the spot called Arcs St-Pierre with three natural arches within a radius of barely 150 yards. The first, which seems to have served as a shelter in ancient times.
6. The same from the opposite.
7. The second.
8. …
9. The third, the most imposing.
10. Both in a row…
11. Emile in a small cave along the path.
12. View from the plateau.
13. The meadows are quite dry but some flowers remain.
14. Our camp a few miles further; the shower feels good. 😉
Continuation and end of these summer holidays in the next update soon…
Rougier de Camarès and Millau bridge
We continue our return journey with several detours…
1. Pretty village of Saint-Sernin-sur-Rance on our road to Aveyron.
2. We arrive in Camares at the end of the afternoon…
3. … and we go discover its “rougier”.
4. It is an area of erosion of clays with a high iron content, which gives its characteristic color from which it’s named.
5. We go walking there…
6. …
7. …
8. Back to VivaLaVida.
9. Nice boondocking near a private lake. Thanks to the breeder who allowed us to spend the night on his land.
10. After a short drive to the East, we approach the Millau Viaduct which I discover for the first time.
11. Quite impressive!
12. After having some lunch there, we take the road again towards the Gorges du Tarn.
We will discover several beautiful natural arches that we will show you in the next article. 🙂
Back in France…
As announced in the previous post, we are back in France, on the northern slopes of the Pyrenees. We go to discover Navarrenx, a pretty fortified little town about 25 miles West of Pau.
1. One of the entrances of the city.
2. Patrol path…
3. A beautiful courtyard.
We had promised ourselves for a long time to share a campfire with friends from the Pau area, Fred and Martine. A few years ago, they bought a small camper that allows Fred, an accomplished landscape and wildlife photographer, to travel for his passion.
Passing through the region, I texted him and the stars aligned so that we could share a nice altitude bivouac. Fred sent me GPS coordinates of a spot easily accessible by a good trail where we could meet up.
4. In the middle of the afternoon, we are the first on site.
5. A few Pyrenean peaks surround us.
When Fred and Martine arrive, the last section was a little too rough for their little camper and we go back down a mile to meet them and find ourselves a spot easier to access.
6. After the aperitif and lighting the campfire, it’s time to prepare the dinner.
Photo FredW
7. On the menu: melon and ham starter, then lamb chops with ratatouille cooked over the wood fire. Yum!
Photo FredW
8. Cooking…
Photo FredW
9. What a great evening with friends! Martine and Fred, thank you for your kindness and for this great time.
Photo FredW
10. Time to go to sleep…
Photo FredW
11. The next day, I get up before sunrise to enjoy the morning atmosphere….
12. First rays on our camp.
13. The plain North of the Pyrenees. The city of Pau is hidden by the mist.
14. On the other side, the first peaks of the Pyrenees.
15. I go back down to our camp.
16. It’s time to pack up camp and say goodbye. We promised to do it again another time!
Photo FredW
More soon with the discovery of a rougier and an impressive bridge…
Thank you all for your loyalty to this little blog.. 😉
Picos de Europa (continued) and back towards East.
We go up the valley towards Sotres and leave the road on the right to discover a trail which climbs to almost 6,000 feet above sea level.
1. Alpine pasture at the bottom of the valley, before the climb.
2. As VivaLaVida gains altitude, the landscape becomes more arid.
3. Snack break!
4. At the end of the afternoon, the convection of the day brings us a beautiful thunderstorm, forcing us to turn back.
5. Going down in the rain…
6. After the storm, we go up to discover a viewpoint on the opposite slope.
7. Small mountain church.
8. Then we head back east. Emile wants to go back to sleep at the surfing spot where we already spent a night.
Along the road the next day, we make a quick stop to discover Santillana del Mar which also turns out to be a real tourist trap….
9. Village house.
10. Church porch.
11. Entrance to the inner courtyard.
12. Large traditional house.
We continue on the road and reach the Spanish Basque country.
13. Nice bivouac on a ridge…
14. The sky is heavy at the end of this day.
15. A visitor who comes to observe us closely at our camp.
16. Last image of Spain in a pretty Basque village, the next morning, just before crossing the French border.
To be continued shortly with the rest of the trip: a stop in Navarrenx and a lovely bivouac with friends, in the foothills of the Pyrenees. 😉
Somiedo National Park and Picos de Europa
After traveling along the coast of Asturias, we head South to discover the Somiedo National Park, in the “valley of lakes”.
1. Houses and granaries typical of this region.
2. After spending a night in a small mountain campground in Valle de Lago, we set off on a lovely hike up the valley, towards the lakes. Along our walk, a beautiful wild iris.
3. Arrival at the lake.
4. Alpine pasture near the lake. We are only at 5,250 feet elevation but already at the tree line.
5. Picnic.
6. Lake plants.
7. Along the return hike.
The next day, we hit the road again to go to the lakes of Covadonga. We sleep in a parking lot under the sanctuary. The next morning, we discover that the road leading to the lakes is closed to private vehicles during summer. We park and go to buy tickets for the shuttle; arriving at 8:15 am at the gatehouse, the employee tells me with a large smile: “The next availability is at 4 pm”… It’s a bit of a cold shower! From then on, we give up and go to discover the Sanctuary of Our Lady of Covadonga.
8. Chapel on the cliff, next to the Virgin.
9. Kneeling pilgrims praying in front of the Holy Virgin.
10. The Basilica of Santa Maria la Real de Covalonga.
11. Crypt under the basilica.
After this visit, we decide to go and discover the Picos de Europa, magnificent limestone mountain range set back from the coast a little further east, and more particularly the Gorge of Cáres.
12. Stop on the road at Mirador del Pozo which offers a magnificent view of the mountain range.
But arriving at the Viesgo crossroads, the road is also blocked because there are too many people. Traveling in the middle of summer is sometimes frustrating!
Emile spots a funicular that goes up to Bulnes, apparently a small mountain village. We go back down the road for 1.5 mile to find a place to park, take the picnic, walk the 45 mintues to the departure station. There is an hour and a half wait but as it’s noon, I buy the tickets and we go to picnic on the banks of the Rio Cáres.
13. Arriving at the top of the funicular, the place turns out to be a real tourist trap! After barely 10 minutes of walking, we arrive in a former summer mountain village which has been completely transformed into a series of crowded tourist restaurants. After only 15 minutes, we have gone around and realize that there is nothing to see there except a small mountain chapel. We can’t even go in as it’s locked.
Back at the upper station of the funicular, we have to wait one and a half hour to be allowed to go back down and we reach VivaLaVida after 4pm. I then decide to go up the East fork of the valley, towards Sotres where I have spotted a high-altitude track. You will discover it in the next article! 😉
Incursion into Galicia and return to Asturias
It was one of the spots I wanted to discover for a long time: Praia de Catedrais or “Beach of the Cathedrals”, in Galicia, about ten kilometers from the border with Asturias. A spot that has become extremely touristy since it was published hundreds of times on Instagram, so much that you now have to register on Internet to be allowed to access it via a QR code. As some arches are only accessible at low tide, this further concentrates the crowd at certain times of the day.
First there around 3pm, I gave up as there were so many people. Thus, we discovered it the next day around 8am and if there were still a lot of people, it was probably 5 or 10 times less than the day before.
1. The site consists of a cliff whose bottom is at sea level and “sanded” on a beach.
2. The most famous arches, in a row with each other.
3. What a perspective!
4. Another arch on the way back to the access to the foot of the cliff.
5. Heading back west, we follow the coast on small roads and come across a pretty lighthouse: Faro de Ribadeo.
6. A little further East, a pretty wild cove. We discover that it is currently reserved for nudists.
7. New stop a few miles further to discover another natural arch, at the Mirador de Atalaya.
8. We continue to follow the coast, sometimes on trails, discovering pretty coves like this one.
9. Here a pretty little harbor, in Viavelèz.
10. It’s time to look for a place to camp and after three unsuccessful attempts, we find a spot above a beautiful cliff that turns orange at sunset.
11. The next morning, discovery of a pebble beach after a short offroad session on an abandoned path.
Then we leave the coast to reach the mountains of the Somedio National Park. To be discovered in the next update. 😉
Cantabrian coast and Asturias
So we continue the discovery of the coast now in Cantabria. We had already stopped near Santander last year and we go to discover another spectacular coastal spot very close by.
1. Arrival on site.
2. Laminated rock characteristic of the region.
3. Variant.
4. A few hundred yards further.
5. Other composition.
6. The tide rises and creeps through the rock wall.
7. Natural pool.
8. Nice late afternoon near San Vicente de Barquera.
9. Rays…
10. Sunset.
11.
61 / 5 000
The next day, a little further, we discover another spot.
12. The Playa del Silencio.
13. This coastline full of cliffs is truly beautiful.
14. We continue to the Asturias-Galicia border to discover a spectacular spot the next day and find a quiet place to sleep by the ocean.
15. Last glimmers of a colorful sunset.
We will show you the Praia de las Catedrais in the next update. 😉
Spanish Basque country
Wanting to discover the Guggenheim Museum building in Bilbao, we drive along the Basque coast.
1. Stop in Ondarroa to discover this pretty little coastal town.
2. Its marina at the mouth of the river.
3. Back street…
4. Intrigued by the noise, we discover a group playing Basque pelota on a concha (field) .
5. Return to VLV via the fish auction, empty this morning…
6. The same auction from the outside. It is built on a quay, right in the city.
After a one-hour stop to repair the VLV headlights that no longer work – one contact of a plug, corroded, broke – we arrive in Bilbao shortly after noon. After parking not without difficulty – it’s not easy to find a space large enough – we eat in VivaLaVida and then go discover the famous building of the Guggenheim Museum.
7. The city of Bilbao combines the old and the new.
8. We discover the Guggenheim from the opposite bank.
9. What an architecture!
10. Spectacular!
11. Contrast of the sculpture all in curves…
12. Water…
13. Nothing is strait!
14. Curves…
15. Entrance to the museum which we’re not going to, the current exhibition not being suitable for children.
16. Still curves…
17. The part of the building that houses the administration.
18. Plaza.
19. After searching in vain for a place to sleep by the ocean, we finally find it in the hills back from the coast, right next to a real menhir.
20. It’s Euro soccer final night and Emile doesn’t want to miss it! On my side, I’m enjoying the sunset…
More to come very soon as we continue our progress towards the west.
A somewhat thwarted start to the summer holidays…
After taking VivaLaVida out of its winter quarters by carrying out a major service, replacing the steering ball joints and some other maintenance work, Emile and I set off again on board for a three-week holiday heading to Galicia, which we hadn’t discovered last year. But after barely a few hundred miles, a big BAM stop us dead in our way!
1. One of the rear tires decided to suddenly give out on us.
2. It takes me an hour under a blazing sun to change the wheel before getting back on the road.
3. We find a cool spot to sleep, on the edge of a beautiful forest.
No question of continuing the journey without a spare wheel. I decide to change the 4 tires that have more than 70,000 miles and are soon worn out. Going toward Saint-Etienne, the nearest town, to find 4 new socks to VivaLaVida. But it’s not an easy task: we go to three tire specialists who cannot order the required size not common in Europe. Finally, one gives us the contact details of an American vehicle seller, Presticar Automobiles in Grand-Croix, which imports Dodge pick-ups we find him late Monday morning.
After two hours of searching and multiple phone calls, he finally finds 4 tires in the right size and I confirm the order. But the delivery won’t take place until Thursday at best. So we decide to pass the time by discovering the surroundings, starting with the Pilat, a local summit which overlooks the Loire to the Northwest, the Ardèche to the South and the Lyonnais to the Northeast.
4. View of the Lyonnais from the Pilat summit.
5. We find a nice boondocking spot at almost 4,300 feet elevation where we spend 3 nights.
6. There is a stream that runs right next to our camp and Emile likes to play in it.
7. We buid a dam.
8. We also visit the surrounding area, in particular this “giant fir tree” which reaches 150 ft in height!
So it’s only on Thursday mid-afternoon that VivaLaVida, wearing her new shoes, resumed her route towards the West. Three hours later, we find a nice boondocking place on the banks of Lake Naussac while a storm threatened.
9. After the first thunderstorm. Three more will follow during the night which will still be restful.
10. The next day we cross the gorgeous Aubrac plateau. Our spot for lunch!
After a night in a camping between Montauban and Auch , we will reach the Spanish Basque Country the next day. To be continued soon.
Way home and laste gateaway of 2023
1. We find a place to sleep in a beautiful forest.
2. In the rain, this forest is beautiful.
3. Dinner.
4. On the way back, we stop at the Cascade des Tuffes.
5. Then we go discover the Herisson Waterfalls.
6. Upper waterfall.
7. Beautiful river.
8. A few weeks later, the first snows covered the Jura Mountains. It’s the opportunity for a hike..
9. Picnic.
10. Foirausaz mountain pasture.
11. End of day…
12. Dusk.
After this rather cold night, I protected VivaLaVida in its winter quarters where it spent 6 months in peace. I took it out a month ago to do a full service and prepare it for new discoveries this summer.
As you read these lines, Emile and I are somewhere with her discovering new lands. I will tell you all about it soon..
Have a great summer everyone and see you soon here ! 😀
D5 Creation