Canada @en

now browsing by tag

 
 

Back from canada to the US !

Bad weather pursuing me, I chose the option of heading south in search of better weather…
 
 
1. It’s really larger than VLV !
 
_DSC3781b
 
 
For the record, the gross weight of the monster reached 844’600 pounds!!! Two-stroke engine of 12 cylinders, each 645 cubic inches, and 2,500 horses to move the monster, the numbers are just unimaginable. Each tire weighs 6 tons alone – there are 10 of those! – with a diameter of 11 feet 4 inches, definitely higher than VLV!
 
 
2. These trucks work in the huge open pit copper mine in Logan Lake.
 
_DSC3783b
 
 
3. The processed ore is transported by train to Vancouver harbour.
 
_DSC3787b
 
 
4. Olong the road, an abandoned church in Pokhaist.
 
_DSC3788b
 
 
5. In Spences Bridge, there is also this workshop for sale, … 😉
 
_DSC3789b
 
 
6. … and also, on the other side of the river, this outdoor theater of the Indian reservation that I found quite aesthetic.
 
_DSC3790b
 
 
7. Another church…
 
_DSC3795b
 
 
That’s it for Canada who reserved me a lot of moisture in this season. I then recrossed in the US with a little story. At the border, I got an agriculture service check and as I had forgotten three logs of firewood in the back box of VLV, the inspector sent me crossing the Canadian Customs again by foot with the three logs that I had to let on the Canadian Parking (import of untreated wood is prohibited). In short, it made me smile… 🙂
 
The weather was not better on the coast of Washington, so I went through Seattle without stopping and headed to the East to find better weather behind the mountains.
 
 
8. By late afternoon, unexpected clearing let me see the impressive Mount Rainier. It is a gray volcano that last erupted barely 300 years ago.
 
_DSC3802_sb_b
 
 
9. The next day, the rain is still with me when I go down the East side of the Cascade Range. Within a few tens of kilometers, landscapes change from a very wet climate to semi-desert lands, pretty amazing. Here halfway, it’s a typical Mediterranean climate with small oak trees that show a full range of autumn colors.
 
_DSC3811b
 
 
10. Arrived late at night, I woke up on the site of Palouse Falls.
 
_DSC3822_sb2_b
 
 
11. Light was difficult but I went anyway down the canyon…
 
_DSC3832_sb2_b
 
 
12 … before to go up again for this view from above.
 
_DSC3841b
 
 
13. New descent on the other side this time to try to see the falls from below, which I managed after many unsuccessful attempts to find a way that allows me to reach the bottom of the canyon.
 
_DSC3845b
 
 
14. These waterfalls are gorgious, jumping barely 200 feet of basalt.
 
_DSC3853b
 
 
15. VLV take the road towards Oregon to the South. Here an old shed…
 
_DSC3842b
 
 
16. Here, some dirt road through the hills…
 
_DSC3843b
 
 
17. Here again, one of those metal bridges that cross some rivers.
 
_DSC3855b
 
 
18. Arrived in Oregon, there is a lot of Wind mills on the plains where the wind often blows.
 
_DSC3860b
 
 
19. Il slept on a ridge with a beautiful late afternoon light on the plain.
 
_DSC3859b
 
 
I will present a few sites in Oregon in the next update! 😀
 
 

Totems and waterfalls…

The rain was still falling, I pulled to spots that I could photograph despite the low clouds and the omnipresent mist … So I made ​​a detour to discover Indian totems of Gilawox and Kispiox. Indeed, it is from this region that Indian totems are known worldwide.
 
 
1. These totems are carved from cedar logs.
 
_DSC3720b
 
 
2. They feature various symbols, characters, animals or, as here, the sun.
 
_DSC3718b
 
 
3. They had no religious significance but allowed the different tribes to distinguish themselves…
 
_DSC3719b
 
 
4. … who competed for originality.
 
_DSC3730b
 
 
5. One of the most imposing is in Kispiox.
 
_DSC3732b
 
 
6. They sometimes have additions to the main trunk, as bird beak.
 
_DSC3737b
 
 
7. A last one, to show you how they can be different.
 
_DSC3738b
 
 
8. Still in the rain- I was a little tired of it, I confess- a beautiful waterfall rushing from a glacier that I haven’t even been able to see in the clouds…
 
_DSC3745b
 
 
9. VivaLaVida riding back roads, I sometimes discover ancient tombs in the forest.
 
_DSC3748b
 
 
10. It maybe don’t look like but it’s still raining!
 
_DSC3749b
 
 
11. After six days of high humidity, I finally saw a small clearing to my camp on the shores of Bobtail Lake…
 
_DSC3750b
 
 
12. … which will gratify me with a beautiful sunset.
 
_DSC3760_sb_b
 
 
13. I take this opportunity to cook some moose meat that Hector has kindly offered me when I was in Whitehorse. Indeed, I wanted to taste that meat that cannot be bought, the regulations are very strict: they can be hunted only for own use. This meat is excellent, I would say a taste between elk and wild boar.
Thank you again Hector! 😉
 
_DSC3767b
 
 
14. Oh, I forgot to tell you. In Stewart while I was drinking coffee in the Armorlight Grocerey store, a man came eating his sandwich at my table. “Goti”, a diminutive of Gotlieb, is a Swiss guy who emigrated to Canada 37 years ago, accompanied by his wife born in Geneva. It is him who holds the grocery store and do you know what? He had Fribourg Vacherin cheese!!! I didn’t hesitate to buy some when he said that! 😀 With a piece of original Gruyere cheese also.
 
_DSC3775b
 
 
15. After six days of rain, it’s good to have some sunlight on the trail… 😉
 
_DSC3768b
 
 
16. Back roads I told you…
 
_DSC3771b
 
 
17. New detour in the Clearwater Valley to explore Helmcken Falls, well-known but extremely impressive, almost 500 feet high – as high as the fountain in Geneva if I’m not mistaken – digging this old lava plateau to form a deep canyon. Unfortunately, the rain was back…
 
_DSC3777b
 
 
Anecdote of the day. Starting again from Helmcken Falls, I thought continue up the valley to the Clearwater Lake but maneuvering, I felt the brake pedal very soft! as I was lying under VLV I discovered that one of the brake lines was broken where it attaches to the caliper, the fluid flowing on the ground. Gulp, no brakes at all in these conditions!
 
I was 35 miles away form Clearwater, it was 5 PM, My cell phone isn’t working in Canada… I decided to try to bring VLV in Clearwater without brakes..! After still have clogged the hose with a screw and a clamp around (photo taken the day after with my iPhone. Do not ask me how that’s possible, the first and back planes are sharp but the hose is blured..! They don’t stop progress at Apple!!! :-D)
 
durite
 
 
It will take me 3 hours to travel 35 miles of a small mountainous road, with downhills to over 10%. Transfer case on “low”, VLV downgraded these steephills only on engine brake, sometimes at 3 MPH in 2nd gear and low range and without touching once the brakes (I did not have those anyway … ). In Clearwater at around 21h, I lay in the driveway of a workshop that will provide me a hose in the morning and after 3 hours of work, VLV was fixed… Thanks to that workshop owner for letting me enter VLV and work sheltered from the rain. 😉
 
But it has at least allowed me to discover another brake problems. While I had replaced all the rear brakes (discs, calipers, pads) in Anchorage only 7,000 miles ago), I discovered that the inner pads are completely worn again while the outer ones are almost new. The trouble comes from the single piston calipers with slides locked by the mud of wet dirt roads. Thus, the pressure acts only on the inner pad. So I’ll have to replace them again without much delay. But I’ll try to find another caliper with pistons on each side to replace the cactual ones and solve the problem. I’ll keep you posted… 🙂
 
Other adventures of VivaLaVida to come soon.
 
 

Cassiar & Stewart Highways

Vivalavida will now wipe six days of almost continuous rain. Indeed, it is the rain season near the Pacific coast, I didn’t really realize it until now…
 
 
1. A pond in the myst…
 
_DSC3629b
 
 
Despite the weather, I went for a detour to Stewart to try to spot some of the many glaciers in the region.
 
 
2. The “Bear Glacier”, along the Stewart HWY.
 
_DSC3631b
 
 
3. The mining road VivaLaVida borrowed in the rain to climb to other glaciers. Funny, we were in Alaska again for a few tens of miles without any customs as it is a dead end! 😀
 
_DSC3636b
 
 
4. Oups, the road ends here for VLV! I continue riding the mountain bike…
 
_DSC3662b
 
 
5. I’m lucky, a brief lull allows me to see the Bereton Glacier in the fog, it’s around 16:30.
 
_DSC3641b
 
 
6. A little later, I even have some sunlight that makes wet rock shining.
 
_DSC3644b
 
 
7. The road ends at this abandoned mine…
 
_DSC3666b
 
 
Back to VLV, I turned back to hope to see the Salmon Glacier, a huge glacier in T before night falls.
 
 
8. VLV seems very small in front of the giant!
 
_DSC3673b
 
 
9. Panoramic to attempt to show you the northern branch. The thrust is so strong that ice is pushed several hundred yards over the mountain (bottom right).
 
_DSC3678_pano_b
 
 
10. A second panoramic to show the immensity of the ice flow; more than 40 miles long and about 6 miles wide for its main part!
 
_DSC3687_pano_b
 
 
I slept on site, hoping for a better light in the morning but I woke up in a dense fog. I then went back down to Stewart…
 
 
11. … here in the middle distance, behind the harbor.
 
_DSC3690b
 
 
12. Seb, if there’s too much snow this winter in Arzier, I found what you need !! With that, you won’t never remain blocked! 😉 This is a Russian car which I have not been able to understand the brand.
 
_DSC3691b
 
 
Still in the rain, I continued South with a new detour to the Nisga’a lava fields, theater of the last volcanic eruption in Canada, about 300 years ago. 2,000 Indians were killed, several villages have been swallowed up. The melt is more than 20 miles long and deflected a big river from several miles.
 
 
13. The only bright spot of the day on VivaLaVida’s way and still in the rain.
 
_DSC3692b
 
 
14. Rainy inlet the next day…
 
_DSC3694b
 
 
15. Marsesh where lichen took possession of the dead trees. Nice atmosphere, isn’t it? We could see one or two trolls showing up? 😉
 
_DSC3698b
 
 
16. Arrival at the lava beds, sometimes smooth as in the background, sometimes chaotic. They reach more than 45 feet thick in places.
 
_DSC3701b
 
 
17. Crack…
 
_DSC3703b
 
 
18. Few trees were able to grow in this young and barren rock.
 
_DSC3709b
 
 
19. A small cascade which drains a lake, also created by the lava flow.
 
_DSC3712b
 
 
20. Small rainbow as VLV continues heading South.
 
_DSC3714b
 
 
Continuation of the descent of British Columbia in the next update.
 
 

Cassiar Highway

VivaLaVida has left the Yukon and began his journey across British Columbia toward South.
 
 
1. First night in BC on the lovely little Boya Lake.
 
_DSC3520b
 
 
2. A few minutes ago, I was in this beautiful snow shower!
 
_DSC3525b
 
 
3. Best of all, as a goodbye from the Yukon on which she extends, this beautiful northern light was offered to my eyes as the full moon lit up the shores of the lake.
 
_DSC3527b
 
 
4. The Cassiar Highway isn’t in really good state and snowshowers continue the next day…
 
_DSC3534b
 
 
5. Graphism of the snow on this lake.
 
_DSC3537b
 
 
First detour to discover the valley that leads to Telegraph Creek, a samll village. This valley is the lower valley of the Stikine River, a mighty river that carves its canyon through layers of basalt before emptying into the Pacific Ocean.
 
 
6. Confluence of Tahltan and Stikine rivers, with the summer camp of Tahltan Indians. They spend three months there to catch salmons migrating upstream these rivers.
 
_DSC3607b
 
 
7. Tahltan cabins.
 
_DSC3545b
 
 
8. Almost at the end of the road, after Telegraph Creek, there is a nice small lake…
 
_DSC3554b
 
 
9. … dressed in the colors of autumn that I found back in these warmer latitudes.
 
_DSC3556b
 
 
10. The Stikine River, powerfull and gorgious…
 
_DSC3591b
 
 
11. … which flows to the Pacific, just behind the distant mountains.
 
_DSC3595b
 
 
12. It’s the high season for parades of ruffed grouse!
 
_DSC3570b
 
 
13. This guy don’t care my presence and runs to the female across the road.
 
_DSC3557b
 
 
14.Here is one of the coveted female.
 
_DSC3580b
 
 
15. The road ends here. I hoped to continue on foot but the bad weather forecast for the coming week have made ​​me give up to spend the night here and hike the next day.
 
_DSC3567b
 
 
16. He was sitting in the middle of the road and went away quietly…
 
_DSC3624b
 
 
17. VivaLaVida in the Stikine River canyon.
 
_DSC3605b
 
 
18. And to complete this update, a “snowshoe” hare whose lower legs and ears remain white all summer. This is the main food of the lynx and red fox and as its population has an unchanging cycle of ten years where it almost disappears, predators must rely on squirrels and other small rodents, seeing their population also drastically reducing. It seems that the cycle of snowshoe is from a genetic cause, in part at least…
 
_DSC3627b
 
 
So much for today! The next miles of VLV to South to come in a few days… 😉
 
 

Nahanni Range (still in Yukon)

Discover of the second mining road built to access the Canjum Mine, another tungsten mine still active. The Nahanni Range Road, the road that crosses the mountain range of the same name, is much better maintained than the North Canol Road since trucks are borrowing it regularly to supply the miners and take down the tungesten. Yet, at taht time, the activities have stoped for the winter and hunting season is over, so the place was also completely deserted when I was there.
 
 
1. Nice river…
 
_DSC3455b
 
 
2. A beautiful small green lake that contrasts with the whiteness of the surrounding peaks.
 
_DSC3461b
 
 
3. VivaLaVida approaches the mountains of the Nahanni Range.
 
_DSC3465b
 
 
4. I found similar atmospheres to those of the North Canol, about 200 miles to the North.
 
_DSC3467b
 
 
5. The warm tones of the last willow leaves and marsh grasses will soon be covered by winter…
 
_DSC3468b
 
 
6. VivaLaVida approaches the pass where is the border with the Northwest Territories again, to almost 5,000 feet above sea level on a trail made very muddy and slippery by snow flurries which succeed.
 
_DSC3469b
 
 
7. On the other side of the pass, mountains look sharper…
 
_DSC3471b
 
 
8. … and lakes are already almost completely frozen. We feel that it’s colder here…
 
_DSC3473b
 
 
9. Small lake just under the summit.
 
_DSC3483b
 
 
10. The weather starts to snow again while I go hiking to the bottom of the valley.
 
_DSC3484b
 
 
11. Lichens are everywhere, beautiful and really thick in places.
 
_DSC3486b
 
 
12. In five minutes, I’ll be in the snow flakes. Seeing nothing anymore, I will have to give up and walk back to VLV, about 4 miles away…
 
_DSC3489b
 
 
I have also not been able to leave that night, the snowfall turning into real storm by a strong blizzard, depriving me of any visibility. So I slept there, snug in VivaLaVida and without the fear of getting stuck as on the Canol Road.
 
 
13. Got up early the next day to discover fantastic colors at dawn, in a true winter atmosphere…
 
_DSC3492b
 
 
14. The valley where I was hiking when I had to give up yesterday…
 
_DSC3497b
 
 
15. Sunray on the opposite side.
 
_DSC3501b
 
 
16. Probably more than two foot of fresh powder blanked the peaks…
 
_DSC3495b
 
 
17. … while it blew so much on VLV that there is only about 4 inches around.
 
_DSC3504b
 
 
18. Going down towards civilization…
 
_DSC3506b
 
 
19. … a road in winter conditions.
 
_DSC3507b
 
 
20. Sometimes some rays sneakly break through the clouds…
 
_DSC3508b
 
 
21. … before a new snow shower. Here, the small lake of yesterday has changed its face…
 
_DSC3514b
 
 
That concludes my stay in the Yukon Territory that I loved as much as Alaska. Much less touristy but with the same variety of landscapes and wildlife, they have another thing in common: the lack of access roads to a large part of their lands, making them difficult to reach. One thing is certain: if I have the opportunity, I will come back… 😉
 
VivaLaVida then proceeded South via the Cassiar Highway rather than the Alaska Highway which we drove up North. Obviously with some detours that I will count you soon.
 
Thank you for your loyalty over and over again … And feel free to share the address of this blog or my FB page “Vivalavida Photography” with friends or acquaintances, they are welcome. 🙂
 
 

North Canol Road (2)

Once past the border of the two provinces, the road divides into two “dead ends”: one leads to Maclung Mine, 9 miles away, the other continues to the northeast to a wildlife management station, some 10 miles along the Canol Heritage Trail (the old trail I mentioned in the previous update). Bridges were washed away and there are thus two water crossing to coolVivaLaVida’s wheels.
 
 
1. Arrival to the station already closed for the winter… I think VivaLaVida has never been so far away from any possible support, it’s really the middle of nowhere here!
 
_DSC3383b
 
 
2. A furtive sunbeam while I eat at the end of the trail.
 
_DSC3388b
 
 
3. I photographed the water crossing only on the way back. Here is the second partially frozen.
 
_DSC3390b
 
 
4. The atmosphere of this altitude tundra under a snowy sky is beautiful.
 
_DSC3391b
 
 
5. And the second water crossing, deeper and longer than it appears here…
 
_DSC3392b
 
 
I have tryed to reach the Maclung Mine but a wicked side cant covered with snow over one mile mountainside detered me. In addition, on the east side of the mountains, it was snowing hard. So I turn around down to the Macmillen Pass. Not without having seen the first wolf on this trip. To far to take some picture but I was able to observe him with binoculars for about five minutes. What a beautiful animal perfectly adapted to these remote and harsh areas!
I also observed an Arctic fox hunting and catching a ptarmigan, great hunting scene. But I messed up the pictures, there was so few light that handhelds, everything is blurry… 🙁
 
 
6. Going down back to the Macmillen Pass, lichens are of a very soft yellow green that contrasts the snow peaks.
 
_DSC3395b
 
 
7. Another frozen marsh.
 
_DSC3396b
 
 
8. Looking for a night camp…
 
_DSC3397b
 
 
9. There must be sources of ocher, some marshes, even frozen, have that characteristic color.
 
_DSC3399b
 
 
10. Some mosses form a kind of astonishing mosaic.
 
_DSC3400b
 
 
11. early winter ambiance…
 
_DSC3402b
 
 
For the record, I found a boondocking site shortly after this picture and the weather forecast (although dated four days) indicating an improvement for the next day, I went to bed around 9 PM as it began to snow. Unable to enable me to get blocked by snow, which would mean abandoning VLV here until early next summer, I set my alarm at midnight to take a look outside. And here I didn’t really hesitate: it had fallen almpost two feet snow in three hours, with the temperature rising to around 33°F! So I restarted and drove nearly four hours at night to get out of the mountains, pretty epic journey in this snowstorm where I sensed more than saw the track completely white…
 
The next day, the snow stopped and then I go out of VLV to eat my snack lunch, I hear the cry of an owl that doesn’t seem far away. So I took the camera and tryed to locate it. Actually not far away, it will prove to be still over 1,500 feet away in the boreal forest and progress was not easy. Besides its calls were not very frequent and I was trying to move slowly so as not to frighten it. In short, it was almost an hour left as I finally saw it. Obviously he saw me but didin’t seem really scared, leting me get close to about 6-7 yards. It was a beautiful Great Horned Owl, the second largest nocturnal bird of prey after the great gray owl.
 
 
12. Here I introduce him… 😉
 
_DSC3421b
 
 
13. Here he is looking somewhere else.
 
_DSC3417b
 
 
14. Returning to VLV, new encounter: two grizzly bears, probably a mother and calf. Little adrenaline rush as starting “chase” the owl, I left my bear spray” in VLV, which didn’t happen to me often … I was Lucky to be at about ninety feet away and the mother quickly smelt me, launching a sort of growl before running away.
 
_DSC3422b
 
 
15. VLV is muddy as never after that road, here a quite deep mudd path…
 
_DSC3440b
 
 
16. Another encounter with grizzlies further on the road.
 
_DSC3434b
 
 
17. After crossing the river back on the ferry, VLV drove the Campbell Highway to the South to get to the second mining road… Blowing snow form welts on the hills.
 
_DSC3442b
 
 
18. Mud and ice as menu of VivaLaVida !
 
_DSC3447b
 
 
19. When I said that he was “in mud”..! 😀
 
_DSC3449b
 
 
20. Snowfall at sunset while I found a nice place to sleep on the edge of Frenchman Lake.
 
_DSC3453b
 
 
Discover the Nahanni Range coming soon!
 
 

Robert Campbell HWY & North Canol Road

Finally, I stayed five days in Whitehorse. First to support a little bit Sarah installing an additional luggage rack on the front wheel of her bike Hercules which will carry the additional stuff that may be imposed by the Canadian winter, partly to prepare the latest update your recently read and to fill up a the empty cabinets of VivaLaVida.
 
It’s the day after one of the first snowfall that VivaLaVida took the road again to go discovering mountains of Est Yukon. But I decided to go there making a small detour in Carmacks to visit Sharon and Garry, the guys I mett four months earlier. So I arrived in the “Barracks”, the coffe shop and post office of Carmacks and seeing the smile on the face of Sharon when she saw me, I guess it was a good surprise for all of us. It was a real plaesure to see them again and to chat for three hours. When I was goinf to leave, Sharon gave me a large cup of zucchini & galric soup, two pièces of zucchini bread, two oat cookies (the best I ever eat !!) and even a banana muffin. I enjoyed that all the next days. So many thanks Sharon ! 😉
 
 
1. End of the day over Little Salmon Lake, along the Campbell Highway.
 
_DSC3310b
 
 
2. Colorfull sunset despite the clouds…
 
_DSC3314b
 
 
3. The next morining was quite cold !
 
_DSC3316b
 
 
4. … but the sky gradually opened…
 
_DSC3318b
 
 
5. … The sun still playing with clouds.
 
_DSC3319b
 
 
6. Winter is coming, rivers start to freeze.
 
_DSC3321b
 
 
Only two roads lead into the East mountains, both built to operate tungsten mines. These Mountains contain in fact nearly 15% of known world reserves of this rare and expensive metal. The first one, the North Canol Road, was built in the 40s and joins the border of the Northwest Territories. Originally, she was leading till Norman Wells. More than 30,000 people worked in construction but maintenance was abandoned just two years after its completion … From the border of the two provinces remains actually the Canol Heritage Trail which is no longer drivable, even with a 4×4 vehicle. Some brave hike through it every year in complete autonomy: 222 miles or 346 km anyway..!
Since Ross River where the North Canol Road starts to the border, there are 185 miles of a muddy and virtually unmaintained trail, which crosses the Mackenzie Mountains, a major mountain range. The mine has been shut down for more than fifteen years. Suffice to say that in early winter, I did not risk to meet many people and had to rely on myself in case of trouble.
First step in Ross River: crossing the river on an old cable ferry. It only works two hours a day from May to early October, so my lunch break has been longer than usual. And there, it immediately puts into it;-) First, despite the sign that says very officially that the crossing is at your own risk, you have to sign a release to get on the ferry; basically, it’s “you cross at your own risk, if you’re sinking, we are not responsible” ..! Once on the ferry that snorts as slowly as a snail and moves in the stream, there is a army lifeboat that accompanies the crossing, 50 feet away downstream, to assist us in case shipwreck !! In short, they seem to have great confidence in this old tub! 😀 And it’s forbidden to take pictures, I do not really know why…
that said, the ferry took VivaLaVida from one edge to the other without trouble, the same on the return way three days later.
 
 
7. It snowed about two feet two days before and only two tracks of hunters who came down from the mountains marked the trail.
 
_DSC3325b
 
 
8. After about 25 miles, no more snow!
 
_DSC3333b
 
 
9. VivaLaVida is getting close to the mountains as the night falls quickly now.
 
_DSC3336b
 
 
10. Frozen pond…
 
_DSC3343b
 
 
11. The road has several bridges over the River Mackenzie and I asked myself if some would carry the weight of VLV…
 
_DSC3344b
 
 
12. The vehicles used in construction have been left behind.
 
_DSC3349b
 
 
13. While I arrive in the mountains, I find some snow on the trail and time seems to go bad.
 
_DSC3350b
 
 
14. Color contrasts are gorgious.
 
_DSC3357b
 
 
15. Frozen marches…
 
_DSC3363b
 
 
16. Mackenzie River.
 
_DSC3368b
 
 
17. The last colors of almost non-existent fall are still in the valley bottom as winter took up residence on the mountains.
 
_DSC3372b
 
 
18. I discovered a small emerald inflowing of the Mackenzie River…
 
_DSC3376b
 
 
19. The ice has not fully covered it yet.
 
_DSC3379b
 
 
20. Arrival at the provincial border at Macmillen Pass at about 4,000 feet above sea level, after 186 miles and more than 15 hours away (in two days)!
 
_DSC3380b
 
 
To be followed in a few days because the low speed of the only WiFi I found in Stewart tooks me two hours to upload 20 images.. 😉
 
 

Sud Yukon

 
1. Up early to enjoy the first sunrays, quite rare however…
 
_DSC3187b
 
 
2. Some lakes empty into others in tumultuous torrents.
 
_DSC3190b
 
 
3. As I head to Carcross, fall colors are vibrant again.
 
_DSC3197b
 
 
4. I make several “photo stop”…
 
_DSC3200b
 
 
5. … throughout the many lakes of southern Yukon.
 
_DSC3201b
 
 
6. They really resemble to fjords.
 
_DSC3206b
 
 
7. And always these incredibly saturated colors!
 
_DSC3209b
 
 
8. Carcross, a very welcoming small village.
 
_DSC3212b
 
 
9. Here is the curiosity of the area that people call “the smallest desert in the world!” This is actually a great dune formed by the prevailing winds ammassing sand of Bennett Lake for thousands of years. Rather incongruous amid this mountainous landscape.
 
_DSC3215b
 
 
10. I decide to climb the highest surrounding mountain the next day, the Montana Mountain, and VivaLaVida takes me to sleep over 4,500 feet elevation. A nice place to enjoy a northern light over Whitehorse, about 80 miles away.
 
_DSC3229b
 
 
11. I will go to bed quite late again…
 
_DSC3223b
 
 
12. Still, I’m up before sunrise, ready to climb the peak that awaits me.
 
_DSC3239b
 
 
13. After two hours ascending, the conditions turn out almost like in winter. As I have to cross a quite icy snow slope chilled to 40 degrees, I regret that I left my ice ax in VivaLaVida as my only one walking stick don’t give me much assurance … Even hiting my shoes hard in the slope, my sole only grips less than one inch in the snow. I assure each of my steps carefully.
 
_DSC3260b
 
 
14. but progression continues…
 
_DSC3241b
 
 
15. … and I soon reach the ridge where I get an incredible panorama.
 
_DSC3247b
 
 
16. After another hour, I finally reach the summit, in the second plane on this image. I continue the ridge til the funny rocket – probably a radio relay – erected on the secondary summit.
 
_DSC3251b
 
 
17. The view of the surrounding lakes is just grandiose!
 
_DSC3252b
 
 
18. Selfie picture despite the bitter cold: 10°F on the thermometer of my watch.
 
_DSC3254b
 
 
19. Three hours later, geting back to VivaLaVida, a picture of this beautiful mountain that doesn’t seem very impressive from here.
 
_DSC3262b
 
 
20. Descent by the Mountain Hero Trail partly washed away by rain. Somewhat to remind me bad memories in Baja..!
 
_DSC3264b
 
 
21. I see many molting willow ptarmigan during this descent.
 
_DSC3269b
 
 
22. Having discussed with some locals who recommended it to me, I went discovering and sleeping in the Annie Lake Valley, another remote valley…
 
_DSC3278b
 
 
I then headed to Whitehorse where I spent a weekend of bad weather writing the last updates and does an oïl change to VivaLaVida. Stay tuned for later news of VivaLaVida’s journey… 😉
 
 

Haines HWY and back to Alaska!

 
1. Early morning at my camp…
 
_DSC3124b
 
 
2. Cold and misty atmosphere…
 
_DSC3127b
 
 
3. … but the fall colors of the tundra remain.
 
_DSC3129b
 
 
4. Small “mirror lake”….
 
_DSC3135b
 
 
5. Last pass before to go down to Haines.
 
_DSC3136b
 
 
6. Panoramic of mountains and glaciers around.
 
_DSC3141_pano_b
 
 
And surprise down the hill: there is a custom and I end up back in Alaska! My map of this area is definitly imprecise, I’d forgotten that Haines and Skagway are on the thin strip of Alaska along the West border of British Columbia. 😀
 
 
7. I find the Pacific back or at least one of his fjords.
 
_DSC3148b
 
 
8. Haines, also along a fjord.
 
_DSC3152b
 
 
9. His small harbor houses as much fishing and pleasure boats.
 
_DSC3149b
 
 
10. Since there is no road between Haines to Skagway, VivaLaVida also took a boat to travel about 18 miles by sea! 😉
 
_DSC3154b
 
 
11. Cruise ambiance…
 
_DSC3156b
 
 
12. … while the ferry navigates to the end of the fjord.
 
_DSC3158b
 
 
Arriving in Skagway is exotic. It is a very touristy place that keeps memory of the gold rush. It was here that the pioneers landed, then crossed the White Pass by walk before to build boats that took them down to Dawson City by the Yukon River.
 
 
13. Main Street with, in succession, a large cruise ship hosting likely thousands of tourists.
 
_DSC3160b
 
 
14. Most buildings date from the late 19th century…
 
_DSC3159b
 
 
15. … and the atmosphere is a bit of another time.
 
_DSC3161b
 
 
16. I leave Skagway in late afternoon and makes me to the White Pass, about twenty miles North.
 
_DSC3169b
 
 
17. These granite mountains eroded by glaciers and dotted with small lakes really makes me think about some landscape of Norway.
 
_DSC3179b
 
 
18. I decide to camp between the Alaskan and Canadian borders.
 
_DSC3176b
 
 
19. Last colors on the mountains…
 
_DSC3184b
 
 
Second return to Canada in less than a week to come in the next update! 😀
 
 

Back in Canada!

 
So is VivaLaVida back in Canada.
 
 
1. Short stop at Beaver Creek, the most western inhabited place in Canada. The church is funny.
 
_DSC3018b
 
 
2. I decide to head to Haines along Kluane National Park and the lake of the same name.
 
_DSC3028b
 
 
3. I find a nice boondocking spot for the night…
 
_DSC3035b
 
 
4. … and enjoy the late afternoon light.
 
_DSC3036b
 
 
This camp will reserve me a really nice surprise. As I finished preparing my campfire and was in VLV to cut vegetables, I see a cyclist coming. I go out to greet her and she introduced herself. She is a young Englishwoman who performs a solo around the world journey moving only by its own power, human power! She began in London three and a half years ago, first biking through Europe, the former USSR and China, then crossing from China to Japan and from Japan to Aleutian Islands on a rowboat (she has wrecedk in his first attempt, the loss of his ship forcing her to return to England to raise funds and rebuild a new boat) and then padling through all the Aleutian Islands to Homer (Alaska) by kayak where she ride his bike again to go to New York next spring. She will then find his rowing boat again tor cross North Atlantic to London where she will finish her world tour! Really amazing how much energy this young woman has to do this crazy challenge!! Have a look on his website: http://www.sarahouten.com, it’s worth it.
 
We will share really good time at VivaLaVida’s campfire and having breakfast together. Hector and Miche, a contact given to Sarah in Anchorage, arrived the next morning to resupply Sarahand we sympathized. I will be invited to eat in their house in Whitehorse a few days later while Sarah will have a little break to equip his bike for the coming winter…
 
The next morning, temperature was only a rainy 38°F and I admit having had much heart ache to see her having to cycle in this wet and cold weather…
 
 
5. Kluane Lake has changed its face in this autumn weather.
 
_DSC3041b
 
 
6. Gray atmosphere in rain and snow at higher elevations.
 
_DSC3042b
 
 
7. This time not pleasant for hiking, after a pause in Haines Junction, I decided to go to Mush Lake by a 4×4 route.
 
_DSC3045b
 
 
8. Left only at about 5 PM, this trail will prove more difficult than I imagined and I reached Mush Lake only at about 9 PM, at night, after some impressive passages of this trail made really slippery by continuous rain. Here, a long water crossing where I wondered which way to take.
 
_DSC3047b
 
 
9. While the rain stopped during the night, I discovered the lake in the early morning.
 
_DSC3051b
 
 
10. What a nice camping spot! I’m obviously completely alone there.
 
_DSC3055b
 
 
11. Back on the same trail…
 
_DSC3057b
 
 
12. … surrounded by marshes, again and again.
 
_DSC3056b
 
 
13. Another nice river…
 
_DSC3061b
 
 
14. … that VivaLaVida crosses without problem.
 
_DSC3062b
 
 
15. Back on pavement, I made ​​a detour to Katlyn Lake while the weather cleared.
 
_DSC3064b
 
 
16. VLV continues heading South on Haines Highway…
 
_DSC3074b
 
 
17. … crossing some passes with great ambiances.
 
_DSC3079b
 
 
18. What colors!
 
_DSC3080b
 
 
19. It’s still cold up there, no more than 36°F in afternoon, and the clouds hang to the mountain tops.
 
_DSC3086b
 
 
20. VivaLaVida on the Haines HWY.
 
_DSC3081b
 
 
21. Altitude tundra.
 
_DSC3091b
 
 
22. I make some detours…
 
_DSC3092b
 
 
23. … here to discover Million Dollars Falls.
 
_DSC3094b
 
 
24. And go further towards South.
 
_DSC3100b
 
 
25. …
 
_DSC3104b
 
 
26. Late afternoon at about 3,300 feet elevation.
 
_DSC3101b
 
 
Next to come soon… 😀