Faroe
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East fjords and end of the trip…
We are Tuesday, the ferry leaves tomorrow, so I have to end the route to the East.
1. A farm and its small church in the plain.
2. These plains are actually alluvial deltas (gravel bars) down the mountains that form the eastern fjords.
3. Short stop at the powerful Nykurhylsfoss waterfall, sometimes also called Sveinsstekksfoss.
4. VivaLaVida makes a small detour through the valley from which she falls, on a track that looks more like a river in places 馃檪
5. This valley is a magnificent basalt staircase, each step of which creates a waterfall. Gorgeous ! Too bad not to have time to explore it longer…
6. With autumn colors now very present, it’s beautiful.
7. A little further, on a small pass, the fall of Folaldafoss.
8. VLV will take a chaotic path to find a beautiful Icelandic camp near a small lake, 2100 feet above sea level.
9. The night will be particularly turbulent, with winds to almost 70 mph and heavy rain. In the morning, the rain gives me some respite while the wind maintained.
10. As I have a few hours left before boarding, I decided to take the F936 trail and was surprised to discover it perfectly leveled, without washboard or potholes. After ten miles, I understand why..! I do not take the risk to pass and turn around.
11. So, VLV goes up to do a small exploration towards North…
12. … discover the beautiful church of Kirkjubaejarkirkja.
13. Details of door shutters.
14. Climbing a small pass, a large beach exposed to the Arctic Ocean revealed.
15. Small stop in a colorful side valley, obstructed by a wall of basalt.
16. Mineral colors.
17. Last picture of a rainy heath…
18. VivaLaVida finds back the N枚ronna ferry for the return crossing cruise.
In conclusion of these few weeks in Iceland, I have some mixed feeling. The island is home to a wealth of incredible natural treasures for whom, like me, love desolate and wild Nordic landscapes. Combined with the omnipresence of sustained and often extremely recent volcanic activity, the cocktail is often breathtaking. On the other hand, because of tour operators eager to make money, this destination has become so touristy that the consequences of this mass tourism become visible almost everywhere. More and more frequent access bans, legislation seeking to limit the impact on the fragile nature, sites with often developed unsightly infrastructure and invaded by dozens of buses, mini-commercial campers rented by hundreds and, probably corollary, Icelandic not very affable and often even unfriendly with foreigners… Not to mention a exorbitant life costs : filling VLV was more than 400.- USD..!
Apart from the few indoor tracks that VivaLaVida allowed us to access off the beaten path, the pressure of this tourism really bothered me. And we were there at the end of the season, with significantly fewer people than in July or early August. Of course, I understand everyone’s desire to discover this raw nature. Yet there are other places on the planet, equally spectacular but less exploited by tour operators who still know how to preserve their country and are in my eyes much more pleasant to visit.
No regrets, however, to have had the opportunity to make discover to Isabelle – Emile is probably still too small to remember of later – this large island and its beautiful and so changing landscapes!
While the N枚ronna ferry made a stopover in Torsh谩vn on the way back, I was lucky enough to have some nice weather to offer you some new pictures of the capital of the Faroes.
19. This small town offers dozens of narrow streets with pretty houses that denote with the American-style pavilions of Iceland.
20. View on the city.
21. Marina.
22. The crossing to Denmark will be somewhat turbulent, with strong winds up to 80 mph and 18-21 feet waves.
23. Venting sinset…
The return to Switzerland was normal except for a turbo hose that dislodged, forcing VLV to drag on the last 350 miles…
Thanks to you for having followed the story of this Icelandic journey of VivaLaVida which will now be rebuilding a small health (axle simmering to change, kneecaps to replace, and complete frame check after more than 6000 miles traveled, of which probably more than a thousand on the various tracks borrowed. You can also view the route on the map “Europe” of this blog… 馃槈
And see you soon for following VivaLaVida’s new adventures! 馃榾
Crossing and first steps in Iceland
1. Here arrives the ferry that connects Denmark to Iceland, serving the Faroes.
2. Barely moored as the rear port opens to let out the arrivals before VivaLaVida embarks…
3. Honeymoon on the boarding park! 馃槈 I will meet the owners of this beautiful Land Cruiser, Kambiz and Filiz, aboard and meet them several times in Iceland.
4. From Tornhavn to Iceland, the ferry passes between the islands of the archipelago.
5. So I went in front of Gj贸gv again, off the coast this time.
6. Last look before the high seas.
7. The next morning, arrival at Seydisfjord煤r, a fjord all teh way East of Iceland. The weather is rainy.
8. En route to pick up my family at the airport in Reykjavik, at the other end of the island or more than 500 miles away, VivaLaVida is quickly in the Highlands that fall colors have already yellowed.
9. These highlands are covered by a few roads or tracks.
10. Ambiance.
11. Canyon.
12. Rain showers.
13. Volcanic geology is omnipresent.
14. Here, water has no choice but to run on soils that are mostly free of all humus.
15. Perspectives are immense.
16. I find by chance Kambiz and Filiz on the track, in front of their first serious river ford, waiting for a vehicle to pass and show them the way. VivalaVida passes and I make some souvenir pictures.
17. Powerfull river carving its way in the basalt.
18. VLV crossing a lava field.
19. Natural pool shortly before night stop…
Well, that’s what I though. By switching on the freshly revised VLV heater, the dashboard displays an error code: defective hot air fan which has just been replaced pre-emptively in Switzerland. It is Thursday night, Isabelle and Emile arrive on Saturday and the only place I can repair is Reykjavik, 500 miles away. I decided to drive at night to be in Reykjavik on Friday. 400 miles until around 3am where I take a 4 hour nap. Arrived Friday morning in Reykjavik, I bring the heating to the Webasto dealer after 2:30 of work to get it out since it is well hidden under the rear cabinet of VLV. The technician discovers that during the work in Switzerland, a wiring harness has not been well attached and is hindering the movement of the fan. After a bill of more than 1’600.- Swiss francs, I was not very happy. But at least, the heating works for the arrival of my passengers tomorrow!
Soon to be followed.
Faroe (IV)
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As announced, here is the latest update on the Faroes with some images of the old town of T贸rshavn, the “Capital” of the Faroe Islands, an autonomous archipelago of Denmark.
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1. The old town is located on a rocky outcrop, sort of peninsula in the harbor.
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2. There are many traditional houses with their roof covered with moss and grass.
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3. “Tiny house” 馃槈
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4. Alley.
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5. The church…
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6. … Sober inside.
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7. …
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8. The oldest part.
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9. Entrance…
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10. The marina and its lively pediment.
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11. Twilight from the VLV camp.
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12. Sheep are everywhere and live in freedom.
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13. Some have escaped mowing for some time!
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14. There are many who are all or partially dark.
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15. Karsoy Island in the morning.
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To be followed in a few days with the crossing to Iceland by ferry. Thank you for following us. 馃槈
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Faroes (III)
Let’s continue the journeye…
1. Arriving in Tjornuvik, another isolated village known for its black sand beach, one of the very few beaches of the Faroes. The place is famous for surfing because the bay opens on the North Atlantic and have big waves when it’s windy.
2. The village is nestled at the bottom of the bay.
3. Overview as the rain doubles.
4. Here’s something I hadn’t seen before: a method to dry the hay that will feed the sheeps during the winter. As it rains all the time, it is arranged in walls. The constant wind prevents the grass from rotting and allows it to dry.
5. Rest zone!
6. Little pass on the way to Gj贸gv.
7. Arriving at the village, still in the rain.
8. It has a privileged natural shelter.
9. Traditional houses…
10. …
11. Last seen before leaving…
Because three days pass quickly, the next article will introduce you to the old city of T贸rshavn, the capital, and the ferry crossing.
See you soon here 馃榾
Faroes (II)
Here is the continuation of my discovery of the Faroes. These islands are right in the Gulfstream, this warm oceanic current which gives to Scandinavia and more largly to Europe its temperate climate compared to its latitude. As a result, average temperatures vary very little between summer and winter: 48-50 F in summer and 37-39 F in winter. On the other hand, there is on average between 260 and 280 days of rain per year and 300 days with wind! VivaLaVida stopped there for only three days but was treated to her part of rain, sometimes fine drizzle, sometimes heavy rain. No wonder the mountains are dripping everywhere! There is not 100 yards without a stream that comes down.
I took advantage of the good weather of the first day to discover two spots among the best known of these islands…
1. On my way, the wind creates clouds on the cliffs…
2. First spot: Lake Leitisvaten, the largest lake in the Faroes, perched about 40 yards above the ocean !
3. It flows into the Atlantic by a beautiful waterfall.
4. The cliff that I climb is impressive! The silhouette at the top gives the scale, well… if you can see it! 馃槈
5. From the top, the panorama is breathtaking! This image is an panorama of 4 vertical images.
6. Traditional boat garage along the lake, on my hike back.
7. Continuing the road to the North, I discover this small village, just lovely… In the distance, the arch of Drangarnir.
8. And here is the second must-see spot: the Gasadalur waterfall. The small village of the same name was one of the most isolated of the Faroe Islands until the construction of a tunnel in 2006. Before, the only way to reach it during winter was the sea where a summary natural harbour allowed small boats to land by nice weather. In 1962, the village remained isolated for more than 5 consecutive months because of a series of Atlantic depressions.
The waterfall is 50 yards tall.
9. View from the top of the waterfall, with at the foot of the cliff, the rocks that allowed the landing…
10. First meeting with the puffin in the cliffs…
11. What a beautiful bird!
12. Here, people attach caravans so they cannot fly on windy days, that means everything!
13. Going up a fjord towards the village of Tjornuvik.
14. Waterfall along the VivaLaVida’s way.
15. Cliffs in the rain. The Faroe Islands have among the highest cliffs in Europe. Some are half a mile high.
In the next update, I will show you the black beach of Tjornuvik and other parts of these beautiful islands. Stay tuned!
Faroes (I)
Having taken the boat from Hirtshals to Iceland, I decided to stop for three days to discover the Faroe Islands that attracted me for a long time. As I write this update from a small lost village, in the pouring rain, and don’t regret my choice. These islands are really beautiful, sheep heaths as far as the eye can see. In fact, there are only a few tens ofinches of humus on the substrate, sometimes basalt, sometimes black stone. The habitat is made of small villages of multicolored wooden houses scattered along the coast and located where there was an option of docking since it’s the Vikings who are the oldest colonizers of these islands. Here are some first pictures of VivaLaVida’s journey.
1. Before landing to the Faroe Islands, the ferry passed by the extreme Northern tip of the Shetland Islands.
2. While VivaLaVida landed at night, a small walk from my camping spot makes me discover an impressive panorama!
3. The day is announced dry and with some sun. Is it it coming from the South ?
4. Sheep stable…
5. Each island is separated from its neighbor by one or more fjords.
6. Mix of rocks and mosses…
7. And here is the sun coming!
8. Going towards Saksund, VivaLaVida is driving along a fjord.
9. Saksund is a tiny hamlet, one of the first built on the main island, and still has several traditional very old houses.
10. Its old church.
11. Specialty of these Northern countries, the roofs covered with moss and grass.
12. Window…
13. The village.
14. Boat garages a bit further along a fjord.
I will continue in a future update, just to avoid indigestion… 馃槈